“Embroidery”, why did I write it like that? Simply because I feel like what I will be explaining here is fancy pre-programmed stitches and how to make bigger “embroidery patches” by using a satin stitch. However, both of those have been called embroidery by cosplay judges, hence I decided to write it like that. With that out of the way, let’s start the tutorial.

Method #1: Pre-programmed stitches

Many sewing machines come with some pre-programmed decorative stitches available. Computer-driven machines tend to have more of those, so I often use my mother’s sewing machine if I want to get that fancy finish on a project. I often do this with metallic thread, but please don’t use that cursed stuff when it is your first time with decorative stitches. It breaks easily. I found it works better if you use a constant slow speed and a bobbin spool with regular thread. Still, it will break. This is why the following pictures have a bit of sparkle in them, but please don’t do that if you’re starting out.

Step 1: Pick your stitch

Choose your desired decorative stitch! The digital sewing machine should also show which foot is recommended. Please attach that one to the sewing machine for optimal results. My mother’s machine also shows the standard settings for the stitch you picked. If you feel like it, you can adjust those to create a different pattern.

Step 2: Threads!

Check if your bobbin is fully loaded and the spool you’re using also has a lot of thread available. Decorative stitches use a lot of thread and breaks/refills make the pattern messy. (I’m no champ at this still.)

Step 3: Go and pray

Time to hit that foot pedal and keep an even speed. You’ll be here for a while. It’s worth it, though. Maybe this is the time to enjoy a podcast?

Step 4: Ran out of thread / it broke anyway

This just happens. And is the reason why your eyes should be on the project at all times. As soon as you spot the fault, stop sewing. Re-thread and try to pick up as nicely as possible. This is part of this sewing choice, sadly. Step 4 will repeat an x number of times. Fern has had at least 8 times this happened. Gwendolyn’s black skirt had this 5 times. It’s best to take your time with this method and breathe. 

Step 5: It’s done! 

Time to enjoy the results of your hard work. Fancy finishes are a neat little way of adding a bit of story to a costume. Hope you catch this bug as well. <3 (Just stay away from the metallic thread as long as possible. )

Method #2: Satin stitch patches

Sometimes I wish I had an embroidery machine with a bigger surface area to work with. Sadly, those are very expensive and I can’t justify buying one. That means I have to get creative at times. For example: Fern’s dance dress has this big gold-coloured detail on the front. I tried making an embroidery file in a way that I could make it work, but I already noticed it would look not the way I wanted it to look. What you can do in those situations is grabbing a stiff fabric in the colour you need, draw the pattern on and satin stitch that. You have to get used to corners and turns, but you can make bigger patches this way.

Step 1: Draw the pattern on fabric

This immediately is a step you need to take your time with. Draw your desired pattern on fabric with a heat disappearing pen. Make sure you can see it well when sewing. It would be nice if you can use a transparent sewing foot, but sometimes that won’t do and you just have to be extra careful with the machine embroidery.

Step 2: Set the machine to a satin stitch

A satin stitch is a very close zig-zag stitch. Usually it is stitch nr. 2 with a closeness of 0 (or close to it). Run a few tests to see if the machine is set up right and if it works for you.

Step 3: Start sewing

Time for the embroidery. Follow the lines you have drawn on the fabric. Go slow and keep a steady pace. Take your time and just enjoy the process. It is not fast at all, but it is a way to create embroidery patches/patterns with a bigger area. (Or you can embroider on the fabric directly.) This is a versatile method, but it you have to be patient. You can start with the details on the patch first, seperately from the garment, to have more room for movement. Once the details are done, you can move on to cleaning.

Step 4: Clip away start and end threads

Clean up your work. Else it will not look as finished as it could and that is a shame of all the work you put in!

Step 5: Attach the patch to the clothing

Glue, sew, heat ‘n bond or whatever method you want to use to attach the patch to your article of clothing. I trust you can decide for yourself what method works best in your case. This is the last step, so enjoy your results!

Good luck with trying a new skill! <3
Amirine